It had been hot like hell and became the most copied watch. It was likewise that opinion that made me interested in the history of the brand, because the dealer explained that the design was inspired in the first men’s wristwatch, launched by Cartier in 1904. So you can imagine that it did not take long before I had been obsessed with chains generally, particularly with Cartier.At that time see forums were just becoming popular, see magazines were rare and watch sites like Fratello and Hodinkee did not exist yet. However, what we’d around in 1995, were the ‘Get Togethers’ with other watch fans (fanatics). All these GTG’s were organised by collectors themselves and so were always quite funny. Everyone brought a couple of pieces from their collection and with loads of beer and wine, we chatted about the several versions before late in the evening. But always the very same brands got all of the attention and for me it was rather frustrating that one just paid attention to my Cartier watches, to be polite. The term ETA was constantly mentioned as if these were poor movements and also often I heard quotes such as; ‘my wife would love them’
Inspired by the newly invented armoured vehicles of the First World War, the Cartier Tank premiered in 1917 and has been in production since, making it once of the longest lived wristwatch designs ever. To mark its 100th anniversary Cartier has introduced a suite of new models, including the elegant and spare Tank Cintrée Skeleton.
Narrow, slim and slightly curved in profile, the Tank Cintrée is arguably the most elegant of Tank wristwatches. Conceived as a skeleton watch for the first time, the anniversary limited edition is available in platinum or pink gold, each limited to 100 pieces. A smaller run in platinum with a diamond-set case will also be available.
Cartier London Tank wristwatch, c. 1973
It’s powered by the hand-wound cal. 9917 MC, a newly developed, in-house movement that is slightly curved to match the shape of the case. Constructed to have a near symmetrical layout running vertically, the cal. 9917 MC has the barrel at 12 o’clock, balance wheel at six, and the gear train in between.
Price and availability
The Tank Cintree Skeleton in pink gold (ref. WHTA0008) is priced at US$61,000, while the same in platinum (WHTA0009) is priced at US$65,000.
And the version in platinum set with diamonds (ref. HPI01123) is US$95,500.