Three new models are being added into the Millenary collection at SIHH next month, together with smaller instances and much more sparkle than ever before. The Millenary is among three groups from Audemars Piguet that include ladies’ watches, but basically, it’s by far the most female-centric of their full collections inside the brand. The Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore both have ladies’ variations, but they started as, and therefore are known mainly as men’s collections. The jewellery collections are limited-edition one-offs, certainly not created for everyday wear or pocketbooks. That leaves the Audemars Piguet Millenary, with its own unique elliptical case and off-center dial.The Millenary collection, that was established in 1995, has always been a stage for watchmaking’s metiers d’art, about a decade ahead of the resurgence of these crafts in the rest of the watch world. Gem-setting is a particular strength of the collection identifying the watches in the sportier Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore women’ pieces. At the exact same time, a partially openworked dial provides the Millenary a specialized aspect — a reminder that it comes from one of the foremost makers of mechanical movements. The Millenary, last upgraded in 2015, will be refreshed with three new models at SIHH following month in Geneva, including two all-gold models set with diamonds and a single gold case variant using a strap.The case on the strap version has a “frosted gold” finish that gives it the look of hand-finished jewelry. It’s created employing a diamond-tipped instrument to produce tiny indentations throughout the surface, culminating in a shimmering glow, such as snow. The finish was introduced last year on the women’ Royal Oak. On the Millenary, it is applied between polished segments on the stepped bezel and lugs, as well as to regions of the case side. The signature counter tops sub-dials that record hours, minutes, and seconds are all set with a new dial substance for this collection. Audemars Piguet also adds a style watch component to the strap variant. It is offered in several colors and textures, such as rubber, alligator, textile, or velvet, and a selection of blue, grey, red, pink, light green, or purple.
Three new versions are added into the Millenary set at SIHH following month, together with smaller cases and much more sparkle than ever before. The Millenary is among three collections from Audemars Piguet that contain ladies’ watches, but essentially, it is the most female-centric of the full collections within the brand. The Royal Oak and the Royal Oak Offshore both have ladies’ versions, but they began as, and therefore are known mainly as men’s collections. The jewellery collections are limited-edition one-offs, certainly not made for everyday wear or pocketbooks. Gem-setting is a specific strength of this collection differentiating the watches in the sportier Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore ladies’ pieces. At the exact same time, a partially openworked dial provides the Millenary a technical aspect — a reminder that it comes from one of the leading makers of mechanical motions. The Millenary, last updated in 2015, will be refreshed with three brand new versions at SIHH following month in Geneva, for example two all-gold models set with diamonds and a single gold case version using a strap.The instance on the ring version has a “frosted gold” finish that gives it the appearance of hand-finished jewelry. Frosted gold is a collaboration between Audemars Piguet and Florentine jewelry designer Carolina Bucci, using a technique called the Florentine method. It is made by using a diamond-tipped instrument to make tiny indentations across the surface, culminating in a shimmering sparkle, like snow. The finish was released last year on the ladies’ Royal Oak. On the Millenary, it’s applied between polished segments on the stepped bezel and lugs, and to regions of the case side. The signature offset sub-dials that record minutes, hours, and seconds are all set with opal, a new dial substance for this collection. Audemars Piguet additionally adds a fashion watch element to the strap version. It is available in a number of colors and textures, including rubber, alligator, textile, or velvet, and a choice of blue, gray, red, pink, light green, or purple.
Though the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore line is usually about sporty aesthetics, there are exceptions, like the Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph Carbon. Oversized and chunky with a carbon composite case, it looks like the typical Offshore but the movement is special. The calibre 2897 is an automatic chronograph with tourbillon, wound by a peripheral rotor. This movement is not new, but for the first time the winding mechanism has been revealed on the dial.
|With a three armed cage and a twin-colour balance wheel, the tourbillon is in the signature style of Renaud & Papi
A cut-out at one o’clock shows the winding gear and the ball bearing for the rotor. And the chapter ring of the dial with the minute markings is actually clear sapphire, revealing the peripheral rotor with its teeth that run all around the edge of the dial.
A typical winding rotor is a semicircular weight that covers half the movement. Here the movement can be admired in its entirety since the oscillating weight is just a slim piece of platinum that sits on the perimeter of the movement.
Constructed in the style typical of Renaud & Papi, the respected movement specialist owned by Audemars Piguet, the movement combines both classical and modern watchmaking. The bridges and chronograph mechanism are reminiscent of old pocket watches, and so is the grande sonnerie style winding click on the barrel.
The case is 44 mm in diameter, and made of carbon composite (essentially strands of carbon fibre mixed with a polymer), while the bezel, pushers and crown are ceramic. And the crown guard and case back are titanium.
Notably, the ceramic is finished to a remarkable degree that only Audemars Piguet has achieved in watchmaking. Unlike most ceramic watches which have a easy to achieve mirror polished surface, the ceramic bezel for example has a brushed top and polished flanks, with a brilliantly sharp edge in between.
With a price tag of US$273,200, this will be made in a limited edition of just 50 watches.