The Heritage Chrono’s announcement electrified the planet’s see forums, and all a sudden, the very experienced watch collectors in the world were dying to have a 4000 eta-based Tudor – a testament to what great vision and fantastic design can do to get a brand that up until that point was, in my very humble opinion, a truly secondary player in the consumer watch market. I do credit two guys – Tudor managing director Philippe Peverelli – on board because 2009 – and inventive director Davide Cerrato – because 2007 – with this marked shift in leadership for Tudor worldwide, and having gotten to know them both a little bit over the last two years, I could say they are two that actually “get it”. They hear, they listen, and they build watches that are respectful of the wonderful background Rolex and Tudor share, while pushing things ahead.2012 was the year of their diver for Tudor. They declared a completely revamped line-up, using a classic inspired Heritage Black Bay version and this view, the Pelagos. I really like Rolex dive watches. I have worn just about each Rolex and Tudor dive watch ever made, at some stage or another, so it’s a class with which I am familiar. However, my proclivities tend to trend towards the classic pieces, so while I knew the Pelagos would be a well-made product, I had been thinking it was the Black Bay that would be the Tudor diver for me. That all changed within the week’s time I had the Pelagos, because it may not have the warm hue of creamy patina or colorful bezel, but what it does have is a very well made frame, a handful of “niceties” and also an undeniably truthful purpose – that is a tool watch.
The Pelagos features applied square hour markers, using a triangle at 12 o’clock and more rectangles at 6 and 9. At three o’clock there’s a date window without cyclops magnifier. Based on this and the fact that the Heritage Chrono doesn’t use the signature cyclops within the date window either, I’ll venture to say Tudor has decided to leave that layout attribute to its big brother only. It is commonplace for many Rolexes to read the model name right on the dial, but the lack of text is welcomed. It might look a little superfluous, until you realize it’s a nod to the dial mark of the earliest Tudor dive watches. Not only are the moment markers suggested here, instead of on the dial, but each hour marker is enveloped by it, offering some glossy three dimensionality to the face of the watch. The hands on the Pelagos (and also the Heritage Black Bay) are now luminous snowflake hands, a welcomed tribute to the snowflakes of the past. The lume on the dial of this Pelagos is incredibly strong, and tinted blue. The bezel of this Pelagos is pretty intriguing itself. Like the modern day Submariner’s bezel, it’s made of ceramic. However, in the instance of the Tudor, it is injected, matte porcelain, which means you would almost never know it. Luminous material is injected right into the ceramic for hashing. What resides at 12 o’clock is perhaps my nerdiest object of criticism on the Pelagos. At 12 o’clock sits a triangle using a cut-out circle, or faux pearl. The first time I watched it , it really bothered me. I thought, you do a bead or you don’t, but a faux pearl is lame (sidenote: in some point I shall write a story about my matching pearl necklace, but I am afraid our traffic would require a minute and immeasurable nosedive following).
I asked Davide concerning the faux pearl thought at Basel World and also his reply was reasonable: a true pearl will drop out (which I can affirm, certainly) but it was important to have a focal point within the triangle for fast legibility – after all, the Pelago was initially meant to be a true tool watch for actual divers. I could not argue with the justification, but aesthetically it didn’t work for me. However, after a week with the Pelagos, I got over it very, very fast and now it does not bother me as much.The bezel works superbly with loud, crisp clicks, with absolutely zero wiggle.The bracelet that accompanies the Pelagos is, as you would anticipate it to be well made, easy to wear, and comfy. It looks much like the Rolex Oyster bracelets, but is completely matte completed. It is, as you’re likely aware, the innovative clasp on this bracelet that makes it something unique, however. This new “floating” grip allows the bracelet to correct with the wearer’s motion. In theory, this was intended for diver whose wrists expand and contract dependent on the strain in the water. In practice, it makes day to day wearability just downright great – especially when flexing your wrist, like you’d, say, writing a watch review onto a computer for 12 hours. Be sure to check out the video up shirt to see exactly what I mean here.In addition to the steel and titanium bracelet, the Pelagos also comes with two rubber straps – among standard length and one of extended length to wear on the exterior of a dive suit. A nice touch, and demonstrating that the people at Tudor “get it” Most divers prefer to wear their watches rubber, and why not include it in the package?
About 2000, Rolex decided to pull on Tudor from the USA. They purchased all unsold inventory back from their dealer network, and ever since then, the US market has been completely void of things Tudor.But, simply since Tudor shared a lot of its past with Rolex doesn’t mean there aren’t some incredibly cool and collectible models in its history – many of which have stories completely their own. The choice below is simply my personal take on the vintage Tudors I are the most appealing. I must also say that there are several principles for collectability that translate perfectly in the sphere of vintage Rolex to the world of classic Tudor. For example, gilt dials and pointed crown guards Tudor subs are considerably more valuable than people without. Large Crown Tudor Subs, while not in the exact same cost range as Large Crown Rolex Subs, ought to be treated as exceptionally rare watches. Tropical dial Tudors are also rather popular right now, and costs can jump fast there. I won’t get into the dial up minutae here, but that will get you started at the world of classic Tudor, or give you some talking points should historical Tudor references appear in your next job interview.The Ranger: Consider that Tudor’s Explorer. It shares the same 3, 6, 9, dial configuration as the Explorer I and wears very much the same, at roughly half the price of a decent matte-dial 1016. The snake-head hands give it another appearance, though.The Advisor: Launched in 1957, the Advisor has been (and still is) the only opinion to emerge from the Rolex family having an alarm – one of my favourite complications. The Advisor was re-launched in 2011 with the Heritage Advisor and original examples can be needed for little.The Snowflake Submariner: A watch-nerd may knock the Tudor Submariner for it’s off-road pulse, but anybody with an eye for layout could say ” so what, look at that wonderful hour” . For a lengthy time period – the 1970s through early 80s – Tudor Submariners came with “Snowflake” hands on. This particular appearance has raised the Snowflake Submariner to some cult classic, and most serious classic Rolex collectors own at least Snowflake – because, well, they are just cool. The no-date Snowflakes are somewhat rare compared to those with date, and prices for these are starting to climb. However, this is just a super cool opinion, and it was so cool the Pelagos (which we are reviewing here – though it may not look like it at this point, but I’ll get there, I promise) and also the Black Bay now have Snowflake hands.
The Pelagos has a real and noticeable, but not overpowering, presence on the wrist. So while 42mm is not a massive stretch for me personally, the very first day or so I looked in my wrist and thought “ok, this is kind of big.” That soon faded after I realized I’d completely forgotten I was wearing a 500 meter diver. What I really mean is, being made of titanium, the watch is light enough and the case thin enough that I hardly noticed it (unlike, say an IWC Aquatimer Chrono, which is just gigantic and impossible to forget you’re wearing – that I know because I have one). The Pelagos was sliding under my cuff easily – something I simply didn’t anticipate. This is an opinion you can put on and forget about, the sign of any fantastic instrument watch.The Tudor Pelagos is a superb instrument watch. Perhaps among the best in its price bracket. In reality, I’m not sure I could name a better made 500m diver that comes in under $5000 – the Pelagos includes a Swiss retail price of 4100 CHF. Yes, it’s powered by an ETA self-winding movement, but so are many good dive watches, including the Tudor Subs of the 1960s and 70s. I can hear the naysayers already, whining you may get ETA powered divers for much less. And also you can, but with this Tudor you are receiving so much more than just an ETA diver. You are receiving an exceptionally well designed, thoroughly functional tool watch in an entirely Swiss-made package (not many competitors in this range can state that) this is a breeze to wear and will handle anything you throw at it. If you’re searching for a more stylized diver, possibly the Black Bay is your Tudor for you, but if you would like a watch you’ll be able to throw, enjoy, wear each and every day of your life, rather than worry about, the Tudor Pelagos is it.
The Heritage Chrono’s announcement electrified the world’s watch forums, and all of a sudden, the most seasoned watch collectors in the world were dying to own a 4000 eta-based Tudor Watches 2018 Replica – a testament to what great vision and fantastic design can do for a new that up until there was, in my own very humble opinion, a truly secondary participant in the customer watch market. I do credit two guys – Tudor managing director Philippe Peverelli – on board because 2009 – and creative director Davide Cerrato – because 2007 – using this noticeable change in direction for Tudor worldwide, and having gotten to know both a bit over the last two decades, I can say they’re two that actually “get it”. They hear, they pay attention, and they assemble watches which are respectful of their amazing history Rolex and Tudor discuss, while pushing things forward.2012 was the year of the diver for Tudor. They announced a completely revamped line-up, with a vintage inspired Heritage Black Bay model and this view, the Pelagos. I love Rolex dive watches. I own three of these – a 1972 Rolex 5512, a 1962 Rolex 5508, and a 1974 Tudor Snowflake. I have worn just about every Rolex and Tudor dive watch ever produced, at some point or another, so it’s a category with which I am familiar. However, my proclivities have a tendency to trend towards the vintage pieces, so while I understood the Pelagos would be a well-made solution, I had been thinking it was the Black Bay that are the Tudor diver for me. That all changed over the week I had the Pelagos, because it might not have the warm hue of creamy patina or colorful bezel, but what it does have is a very well made frame, a handful of “niceties” and also an undeniably honest purpose – that is a tool lookout.
The Pelagos includes a real and noticeable, but not overpowering, presence on the wrist. Again, nearly all of my watches, my dive watches, are 39 or 40mm. So while 42mm is not a huge stretch for me, the first day so I looked at my wrist and thought “ok, this is kind of big.” That soon faded after I realized I’d completely forgotten I had been wearing a 500 meter diver. What I really mean is, being manufactured from titanium, the opinion is light enough and the case thin enough that I barely noticed it (unlike, say, an IWC Aquatimer Chrono, that is simply gigantic and impossible to forget you’re wearing – I know because I have one). The Pelagos was sliding under my barbell readily – something that I just didn’t expect. This is a watch you can put on and forget about, the indication of any fantastic instrument watch.The Tudor Watches Expensive Replica Pelagos is a great tool watch. Maybe among the very best in its price bracket. In fact, I’m not sure I could envision a better made 500m diver that comes in under $5000 – the Pelagos has a Swiss retail cost of 4100 CHF. Yes, it is powered with an ETA self-winding motion, but so are lots of good dive watches, such as the Tudor Subs of the 1960s and 70s. I can listen to the naysayers already, whining that you can get ETA powered divers for less. And you can, but with this Tudor you are getting a lot more than just an ETA diver. You are getting an incredibly well designed, thoroughly functional tool watch in an entirely Swiss-made package (not many competitors in this range can say that) that is a cinch to wear and will handle anything you throw at it. If you’re searching for a more stylized diver, perhaps the Black Bay is your Tudor for you, but if you want a watch you’ll be able to throw, love, wear each and every day of your life, and not fret about, the Tudor Pelagos is it.
Introduced at Baselworld 2016 alongside the new Black Bays in bronze, black PVD and a smaller size, the second generation Heritage Black Bay (ref. 79230) looks much the same as its predecessor at a glance, but is substantively improved, particularly with the newly installed in-house movement. The updates apply to all three variants of the Black Bay – black, red and blue.
The most obvious changes are aesthetic, starting with the dial. The retro Tudor Watches Head Office Replica rose logo has been done away with, replaced by the shield emblem. And the curved line of text at six o’clock has been replaced by two straight lines noting the new Black Bay is a COSC-certified chronometer (as are all Tudor’s in-house movements). Together these change give the dial a slightly more modern look.
In contrast, the new steel bracelet harks back to the riveted Oyster bracelets of the 1950s and 1960s that are liked for their distinctive look. It features what resemble rivets on each of the links, but in reality are the tops of the bars that hold the links together. And unlike vintage riveted bracelets, the new bracelet links are solid. While vintage rivet bracelets required excessive effort to size, either by pulling out the rivet or unfolding it link itself, the modern bracelet has riveted links only on the fixed link. The removable links closer to the clasp have conventional exposed screws to make link removal easy.
While the original Black Bay was powered by an ETA 2824, a robust movement with the drawback of an inconveniently short 38 hour power reserve, the new Black Bay is equipped with the MT5602. Self-winding with a 70 hour power reserve, the MT5602 is a variant of Tudor’s first ever in-house movement that made its debut in the North Flag last year. Beyond the three day power reserve, another notable feature is the non-magnetic silicon hairspring. And the balance oscillates at a conventional 28,8000 beats per hour but is held in place by an less conventional full bridge, a feature found in all Rolex movements and one that improves stability in theory.
As a consequence of the in-house movement which is 6.5 mm high, compared to 4.7 mm for the ETA 2824, the new Black Bay is slightly thicker. The case remains exactly the same (with a diameter of 41 mm) but the case back is now slightly domed instead of being flat as in the first generation. On the wrist the difference is not obvious.
The final tweak to the revamped Black Bay are the new colours for the woven NATO-style straps. Previously only available in black (for the black and red) or blue, the woven strap is now offered in colours matching the bezel – blue for the Black Bay Blue and maroon for the red bezel model.
And it is worth noting the updated Black Bay means that the first generation Black Bay Black, which was introduced in October 2015, will have been in production for less than a year, a surprisingly short life for a bestselling, mass produced timepiece.
Price and availability
The model references for the new Black Bay are 79230B, 79230N and 79230R for the Black Bay Blue, Black and maroon respectively. They will reach stores in August 2016, with a price that is a modest SFr250 over that of the outgoing Black Bay. That means the new Black Bay will cost SFr3200 on a leather strap and SFr3500 on a steel bracelet. Both versions are accompanied by an additional woven strap.
Correction September 7, 2016: Changed to reflect strap choice with first generation Black Bay.